Go East


On my previous visits to Lanka, the East was ravaged by civil war and monsoon seasons. This time I was determined to make it to the untouched coast. Arugam Bay is ranked as one of the top ten surfing destinations in the world, although those who’ve surfed the waves of Indo and Hawaii may beg to differ. A-Bay was devastated by the boxing day tsunami of 2004 but thankfully has got itself back on its feet.


The bay has a nice mellow vibe and we didn’t get up to much. Our highlight been a delicious curry cooked up by one of the local bogus Rastas. After making the huge meal he proceeded to sit behind me in a hammock, light up a joint and kick the back of my chair whilst churning out all his one lined philosophies about war, corrupt politicians, media poison, and how when you cut us all open, we all bleed the same colour, or something like that. He then admitted that he was too stoned to figure out the bill and kindly asked his son-in-law to help him out before disappearing into a cloud of smoke…


A long bus ride up the coast took us to Trincomalee, or Trinco for short. Trinco is in the North East, so I suppose that the locals here are like the Geordies of Sri Lanka. That is where the similarities end though, as there’s no stottie cakes or whippets here, just a lot of Kothu shops, some quiet beaches and cows everywhere…

Batticaloa bus station

Kothu Roti



Trinco is known for its fine natural harbour which has made it prone to all kinds of attacks during the years. During WWII, there were many British seaman situated in Trinco, many of whom were killed during a Japanese air raid on the harbour that sunk a dozen vessels. Almost 200 British men are laid to rest in the beautifully kept commonwealth cemetery.




Fort Frederick was built by the Portuguese some time ago and a stroll through the compound leads to Swami Rock and the Koneswaram Kovil. The temple is one of the most important Hindu sites in Sri Lanka and houses the lingam, the Hindu phallic symbol, which actually looks more like R2-D2 on acid than an oversized penis…



A Hindu Tommy the Trumpeter

“Excuse me sir, but that R2-D2 is in prime condition, a real bargain”

Categories: Sri Lanka | Tags: , , , | 3 Comments

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3 thoughts on “Go East

  1. 0-3 …… Trinco was where my dad left from to patrol the straits of Malacca as a submarine during WW2 . Many a sub was lost on these patrols, lucky for me not one my dad was serving on at the time. Keep on enjoying and I won’t mention 0-3. 😉

  2. Gavin Vose

    Being a bit of a technophobe as I am, not sure you will get this…………………..
    Just read through your blog, really enjoyed it. Looks like you are having another fantastic trip.
    Was good to see that you bumped into your dad too (that was him in the green shorts holding the fish wasn’t it!?!?)
    Take care, Gavin Vose

    • I got it Gav, cheers keep following. Ps the bloke in the green shorts spoke better English…

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